Day 19 – The Day You Want to Have (Part 1)

Originally published on September 19, 2025.

I still had one lingering stressor: the car. Where I parked last night, you could only buy two hours of parking at a time, which isn’t exactly sightseeing-friendly. But after a little wandering, we scored a long-term spot and finally felt free to enjoy Rouen. Today’s theme: churches.

We started with the Church of St. Joan of Arc, built in 1979 on the very square where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. The church’s modern design, with sweeping wood beams and dramatic stained glass rescued from a bombed-out medieval church, feels both somber and uplifting—a fitting tribute to France’s beloved heroine.

Next was Saint-Maclou, a flamboyant Gothic gem from the 15th century. Dedicated to Saint Malo, it’s often considered one of the masterpieces of late Gothic architecture. Its intricate façade and twisted spire are jaw-dropping, and even though it was heavily damaged in World War II, careful restoration brought it back to glory.

Finally, we saved the biggest for last: Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral. Once the tallest building in the world (1876–1880, thanks to its iron spire), it remains an awe-inspiring giant. We walked in just as a group of young people were rehearsing with music and dance, filling the immense nave with life. The cathedral houses at least three rose windows, a breathtaking choir screen, and the tombs of Richard the Lionheart’s heart and several dukes of Normandy. Over the altar is a striking sculpture of the Ascension that seems to float heavenward.

On our way around town, we also passed a couple of churches that have been deconsecrated and now serve as museums—Rouen has so many historic churches that even the “extras” get a second life.

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