Day 23 – Bernay & Lisieux, I Go to Church

Originally published on September 23, 2025. 

Got up this morning and went over to Bernay, a charming Norman town that turned out to be much bigger than I expected. We sampled some of the historic architecture before heading into Église Sainte-Croix, built in the 14th century on the site of a former abbey. The interior was a surprise with its timber-beamed ceiling and colorful stained glass. Like many French parish churches, it also houses a war memorial to local soldiers lost in both World Wars.

We then headed back to Lisieux to see the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, one of the earliest Gothic cathedrals in Normandy, built between the 12th and 13th centuries. Its soaring nave and elegant stone carvings were magnificent. Afterward, Peggy went back to the apartment for a break while I soldiered on to the Basilica of Sainte-Thérèse, completed in 1954 in a Romano-Byzantine style. It is one of the largest churches built in France during the 20th century, and also one of the most beautiful religious buildings I’ve ever been in. The mosaics are so dazzling they practically glow from every wall and ceiling.

Called it an early day and headed back to rest up — basically six days left in the adventure.

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